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When compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” states the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small shop securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary achievement.